Erdem Moralioglu cited the Amish and a photo essay called Las Mujeres Flores – about a German settlement in Mexico – as his inspiration for his Resort 2013 collection. Also on his pinboard were pictures of the Queen and of upper east side ladies, posing neatly on their upholstered sofas and armchairs. As he told Vogue, “ What I want to show is how someone can wear the collection in a serious, grown-up way, and how someone else can do it in a bonkers young way, too.”
He certainly attains both, with the silhouettes classic and sophisticated – a line and pencil skirts, sheath and shift dresses – he imbued them with vivid floral schemes, an abundance of embroidery and manical patchworks. He had a delightful time with lace – tone on tone lace applique dresses, see through lace sleeves and quirky touches such as lace collars and see through lace inserts. A whimsical, wearable and never boring collection.
Oscar De La Renta has gone 24/7, his Resort 2013 collection’s program notes announced that the green and white sequined baseball t-shirt and the tulle and organza gingham skirt will be available for preorder immediately on TheFancy.com – he’s embracing social media. But having one’s eye on the future doesn’t mean he has abandoned his tried and true silhouettes.
What he has done is used exuberant prints (many of them floral), elaborate embroideries (many beaded) and all in an intense and broad range of color – carnation, iris, vermilion, peridot, evergreen, and a shade of cobalt blue dubbed “Pacific”. His fabric of choice for resort was homespun cotton, lending a sense of ease to the collection (even when it had thousands of sequins), featuring much more softer, relaxed pieces. When asked what his inspiration for the collection was, Oscar replied, “Making clothes”. And that was what he did; beautiful, well crafted, really good clothes.
Just Cavalli, Roberto Cavalli’s lower priced line, is a collection for the young, sexy, bold woman. Full of vibrant colors and the animal prints he is famous for, Cavalli also introduced print blocking – mixing mirrored florals (Venus flytraps and Garden of Eden palms) with his signature animal prints. My favorites were the floral printed jacket and dresses, along with the floral printed shorts paired with a leopard print blouse (shown above). I’m sure this collection will have a home in trendy, hot night clubs much as his signature collection has on red carpets everywhere.
Donna Karan’s secondary line, DKNY, embraced a monochromatic look save a few zebra print pieces – the best being the fuscia/scarlet/black printed skirt worn with a bold color blocked top (shown above). The major standouts were the flirty black party ensembles, one dress had tiers of feathers and lace and a beaded neckline, while another favorite was the lace tuxedo shorts suit. An all black flared trouser, satin blouse and duster is an elegant look perfect for work play, and gives you 3 awesome pieces to broaden your wardrobe. On the other end of the color spectrum was the on trend cropped blazer, tunic top and cropped taper pant combo.
Top selection of photos – Erdem Resort 2013. Second selection – Oscar De La Renta Resort 2013.
Bottom row – from top left: Just Cavalli, Just Cavalli, DKNY, DKNY, DKNY, Just Cavalli – all Resort 2013.
Curators of Style 