It’s amazing what a bit of attention does to one. It can instill a newfound sense of inspiration and challenge you to raise your level of expertise. Looking at Proenza Schouler’s visionary Spring 2016 collection, it seems the gifted designers, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, aren’t all that different. Earlier this year they acquired a new investor and what followed was a more ambitious collection with top-notch craftsmanship that exuded a new modernity, femininity and confidence.
With the collections color palette of black, white, and red, copious amounts of ruffles and exposed shoulders (clearly an emerging trend for Spring 2016), along with broderie anglaise dresses and jackets lined with pom-poms, clearly images of Spain were bouncing around the designer’s minds. Yet, per Lazaro Hernandez’s backstage declaration, “We were looking at bananas, things that peel away from the body.”, it was something entirely different that inspired the collection. Leaving me to wonder if it wasn’t plantanos he was referring to.
Standouts in the collection were a series of tailored pieces and dresses gathered together with grosgrain ribbon and bows, creating cutouts and exposed shoulders. Dresses with exquisite overlays of feather-link mesh, painstakingly assembled one quill and jewel at a time, and the finale of fil coupe dresses embroidered with sleek silver and black balls were truly special. And, those shoes, particularly the pointy-toed mules with metal ring detailing which laced at the ankles. They will be a must-have on many women’s list come spring. That investor certainly got his money’s worth!
View the entire collection at voque.com.
A relatively new designer, Gabriela Hearst, previewed her third collection for Spring 2016 (the first two were snapped up exclusively by Barneys New York), which was as full of tasteful luxury as her first and second outings. It is no wonder she shows a knack for designing rich minimal clothing that woman want and will wear, Hearst hails from a grand Uruguayan ranching family and is married to a descendant of William Randolph Hearst.
This season she introduced a pop of color, vibrant orange, into her color palette of navy, white and olive, and retained her love of pure fabrics such as cashmere, silk crepe de chine, canvas and cotton gauze. While urbane elegance is still the undercurrent of her collection she introduced rustic looks as a nod to heritage. Standout pieces were the strapless evening columns with a built-in choker necklace, and a beaded cashmere gown with see through stripes. On the sportier side there is an olive rugged washed cotton field jacket that I’ve got my eye on.
View the entire collection at vogue.com.
Photos courtesy of Vogue.com and wwd.com.
We’re Not Done Yet