Erdem Moralioglu’s ethereal, fairy tale Spring 2015 collection was inspired by one woman, Victorian biologist and botanical artist Marianne North; who was so esteemed in her profession that there is a gallery dedicated to her at the Royal Botanic Gardens in Kew, outside London.
Yet Erdem’s garden was more on the lines of a jungle, a tropical, evocative one. Starting with the dimly lit runway, dressed in lush emerald green foliage, and continuing with the first exits of brilliant dresses in rich teals, forest and emerald greens, and vibrant chartreuses. A stand out was the grid like crochet and sheer organza dress with plant life appliques in the aforementioned colors. A trellis with blooming vegetation crawling up, over and within.
Like all good fairy tales duality was present. The pure represented in Victorian influences of the 1890s — the high collars, tight bodices and buttons lined down the front, and plenty of crochet and broderie anglaise. Then there was the wild side with a plethora of feathers and fronds, overlaid and dense, applied by hand. Tiny pieces of cut chiffon were composed in camo-like floral patterns, and cockerel feathers emerged from vivid and vibrant embroidery (absolutely stunning!). All resembling a couture like precision.
One could go on to say the tweeds in shades of black and white, with their edges frayed, represents the common folk in this fairy tale. But remember this is an exotic tale, and we can’t have just any tweed, it must be entwined with floral and plant embroidery and exquisite patches of lace.
The collection was neatly balanced with Nicholas Kirkwood’s black oxfords and cross-laced flat Roman sandals. The perfect modern touches to the perfect collection.