I doubt I could describe Alexander McQueen’s latest foray on Fall fashion any better than vogue.com’s Mark Holgate, so I won’t. I’ll leave it to his summation of the collection which captured my reaction distinctly, “Sometimes, like at the small but absolutely exquisite Alexander McQueen presentation shown at the giddy-making gilded splendor of the Opéra Comique, fashion is about that moment when, what you are seeing before you is so magically transportative that you catch your breath, then forget to breathe out; that it goes beyond any kind of cerebral comprehension and instead causes an intense and instant emotional connection. And to think that Alexander McQueen creative director Sarah Burton did all this with just ten looks. Of course, those ten were worked and finished to levels of near indescribable perfection.”
I can only add that the collection was a delightful mash-up of the Virgin Queen, Elizabeth I meets Alice In Wonderland. Pregnancy must have kicked her already sublime imagination in to over drive!
Another favorite outing in Paris was Raf Simmon’s 3rd collection for the Christian Dior house. A whimsical collaboration of classical design silhouettes (he introduced a softer feel, think more jazz age less rat pack) married to the lyrical paintings of Andy Warhol’s fashions and shoes, the precursors to his infamous Pop work.
The classic Bar suit was made this season in wool that mimicked denim, and Dior’s love of dramatic, asymmetric draperies was taken in a contemporary direction with hemlines sliced on the diagonal. Taking the old and making it new, embroidering your name on the fabric of the storied house with out demolishing the very structure it was built on.
Perhaps, Heidi Slimane, could take a lesson on how to leave his thumbprint without camouflaging the Yves St.Laurent line into a look and feel it will never, nor should, wear comfortably.
A sampling of my other favorite exits from Paris Fashion Week.
Clockwise from top left: Celine, Celine, Givenchy, Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Balmain, Chanel.