With their jeans and knits gracing the bods of major celebrities and models, their accessories line expanding briskly, and all while pursuing a global expansion that’s building at a rapid clip, Rag & Bone’s David Neville and Marcus Wainright have been very busy boys. But that didn’t stop them from presenting their tightest, most accessible and all out fabulous collection yet.
The collection themes were spelled out within the first few looks – texture, menswear influenced prints, knits and super short skirts and dresses. The first look matched an ultra chic tweed jacket with a pair of quilted leather pants followed by a mega short sweater dress with its rubberized trim and oversized houndstooth that expanded on the textural story, and laid down the blue print of the collection’s reinterpreted classic menswear print theme. Besides the blown up checks the duo showcased a digitized Prince of Wales wool in menswear inspired, tailored pieces that clearly were designed for vital, strong and sexy women.
The extremely short hem lines on the fitted and flared skirts and slightly A-lined dresses flaunted super sheer thighhighs with extra thick bands (love this look) that is sure to become a trend among confident, fashionable women next fall (if not sooner). As will the collars that stood away from the neck or rolled over on oversized boxy sweaters – I must have the magnificent sweatshirt inspired leather sweater with its ultra high neck and dropped shoulders that closed the show.
“We started with flight, aviation, Pan Am uniforms,” Wainwright told Women’s Wear Daily backstage before the show of the designer duo’s inspiration. “We wanted to start with something very clean, and then it quickly evolved from the minimal to much more modern military aviation.” The stand outs being the fabulous trench and parka (which I can envision wearing day and for dressy evening) whose sleeves were articulated the same way as an airforce jacket back in the forties, and which took ten go-rounds to get right. Aviation made its way into the color palette as well, merging dark, military service shades of black, gray, and olive, contrasted with a keenly sophisticated use of deep purple, brilliant blues (love the pale blue-grey leather), and a flash of an orange that originated from the lining of a MA1 flight jacket.
If this dynamic duo is busy now imagine what their future holds. I hope they’ve mastered time management!