Paris Fashion Week – Dries Van Noten

Do you remember the grunge era? The days when the music scene was thriving with the sounds of Seattle based bands such as Pearl Jam and Nirvana. When designers like Marc Jacobs made the “anti-fashion” look fashionable, and in the process carved out an iconic status for the plaid shirt.

Dries Van Noten’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection, too, was an ode to plaid. Though not your nineties grunge tribute, Noten took the rebellious print and breathed romance into it. The master of the masculine/feminine dynamic and guru in the art of print mixing, snagged the fabric and spawned a fresh, modern look. One of lightness and air.

Dries reworked the fabric in taffeta, organza, mousseline and lamé, producing 55 variations on the theme, often pairing it along side of washed out florals and embroidered flowers on silk. Not only did he rework the plaids in various fabrics, he brought a wide color range to the print – lilac, green, dusky pink, gray and bolder hues such as magenta, navy and purple.

Skirts were easy with gently controlled volume, jackets were bell-shaped with hourglass silhouettes and bottoms could be loose, a la pajama bottoms, or cut fitted as a lean trouser. There were belted pajama tops, diaphanous floor-length skirts, sleeveless sweaters faced and backed with contrasting plaids and must have dressing gowns casually belted (a sage and navy one with embroidered flowers on the shoulder in particular).

Plaids pulsed throughout the entire collection with the finishing touches of pumps, heeled sandals and clutches (small and large) clad in tartan plaids and mini houndstooths with a few leopard print clutches thrown in for good measure. The end result, grunge couture!!


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