Francisco Costa closed New York fashion week with a brilliant collection that once again was softer and sexier in nature. Style.com reported Costa’s remarks from backstage, “It’s erotic again, a continuation of last Fall and Spring,” and cited as references the late Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, the artist Carsten Nicolai, and the power and precision of cars”.
While Costa revealed his softer side, it was also a collection of structure and texture. He used stiff fabrics—silk gazar and duchess satin—often bonded with acetates – draping and manipulating them to stand up on their own. Low necklines often framed or revealed exaggerated scuba-fabric bustier cups making some of the sexier dresses. Francisco also gave us some of the shortest dresses he has paraded down the runway in a while. The dresses with overlays over minis hinted at the flesh underneath and were every bit as sexy.
Stand out pieces were dresses with long, narrow skirts suspended from peplums of lighter shear fabrics, creating seductive swishes of movement and revealing flashes of skin beneath. Dresses one could have easily imagined Carolyn Bessette Kennedy sporting on the arm of her dashing husband.
Proenza Schouler’s vision for Spring/Summer 2013 was one of feminine looks with a decidedly edgy feel – delivering a collection that packed a wallop of a punch. Strutted down the runway were leather box pleated a-line skirts topped off with mixed fabric sleeveless jean jackets (which I must own), patchwork dresses of eel skin, leather, and python and stand out pieces of oversize, slouching-forward coats in perforated leather bonded to jersey that was laser-cut, then crocheted back together.
Softness came via bias-cut chiffon dresses made up of swirly prints with insets of black lace revealing glimpses of flesh. Seriously sexy! Photoprints rounded out the collection but were made to feel fresh and newer than previous seasons by cutting them on the bias into strips, then stitching them diagonally across the torso, giving the images like crowd scenes and kids in a pool an almost abstract feel.
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez celebrated the opening of their first ever boutique, on Madison Avenue, last week. How lucky are we that they have a modern fresh collection, which upped the ante on craftsmanship, to stock the shelves. Bravo boys!!
As Fashion Week continues in London this week I leave you a few other of my favorite looks.
1st group of photos – Calvin Klein Collection Spring/Summer 2013. 2nd group – Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer 2013.
Last group – clockwise from top left: Peter Som, Narcisco Rodriguez, Band Of Outsiders, Ralph Lauren, Victoria Beckham, Reed Krakoff