The buzz at NYFW surrounds the story of American Sportswear, and Derek Lam is American sportswear at its best. It was a loosely structured collection but pencil skirts, crepe body suits and jersey dresses forged a flattering and sexy feel at the same time. Right before his show he described his silhouettes as, “Clean, just really clean. I wanted her to feel comfortable and look comfortable.”
Inspiration came from the 70’s (Lam had been looking at 1970s paintings of Philadelphia urbanites in portraitist Barkley L. Hendricks’ 2008 retrospective) with plenty of the era’s texture – leather had a strong presence along with brightly hued guipure lace, gleaming macrame, crochet and basket-woven cellophane raffia. Lam is a master at innovative color palettes, presenting sunny yellows and kelly greens along with yellow/teal/black combos and pops of red, orange and blues.
Stand out pieces were the oversized fleece sweatshirt with rolled sleeves worn with an out of this world metallic gold leather skirt pieced together with black silk cord macramé along with the magnificent yellow/teal/black guipure lace sheath dress.
Rockabilly (Lam says it’s one of his all-time favorite looks) inspired slingbacks/half boots and pumps made in the vibrant yellows and greens along with gleaming black and snake-skin for a hip and fresh look. As Lam was quoted in a post on vogue.com, “Spring, to me, is about style, not necessarily all-out fashion,” and Lam’s style is out right modern and cool x 10!
Alexander Wang’s focused, strong spring showing is the talk of New York. And it’s a collection worth all the praise it’s reaping. “It’s all about dissection,” proclaimed Alexander Wang to Vogue.com, moments before unveiling his masterly collection, “tension and subtraction expressed through structure and fluidity.”
It’s a collection of structure yet the pieces have a flow to them, a certain softness. Void of color, except for a few nude looks and a smattering of silver, white and black were the colors de jour. It began with sharp right angle deconstructions that gave way to cutouts in ” wavy zebra stripes” and tops with cutouts reminiscent of the snow flakes we cut out as children. The individual elements were held together with wide-spaced, giant-scaled fagoting threads, or with a fine ladder of clear plastic filaments (barely visible unless viewed up close).
The collection may have been structural in nature but also contained several severely sexy dresses – the show stoppers were the silver and black ones made of long cutouts of fabric draped on the body and held together with invisible fish-line embroidery (resulting in sky-high slits). Seriously sexy!
And can we talk about those innovative gladiator boots constructed of a series of black leather lozenges held together up the leg with more of those filament threads and left completely open in the back. Ultra chic and the perfect complement to a PERFECT collection!!
First group of photos – Derek Lam Spring/Summer 2013
Second group of photos – Alexander Wang Spring/Summer 2013