Joeseph Altuzarra, the winner of the 2011 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, declared backstage at his commanding show, ” It was really about mixing it”. Altuzarra’s collection, another one of my favorites, ambitiously combined such ethnicities as forties Parisiennes, 19th century Italian heros, Berber Moroccan carpets and Indian hippie-market coin embroidery for a deft, all-around successful hit show.
This fall, Alexander Wang, rose to another level with all the elements of strong, and innovative designs that comprised a powerful and mature collection. He combined the color de jour — red, leather and fur with such imagination that left the audience craning forward, engaged and curious from first look to last.
I was not familiar with designer Mandy Coon until last weeks New York’s fashion shows, but I can guarantee it won’t be one I’ll forget in the future. Her prints are vivid and eclectic — the moth wing print, which had a kaleidoscope effect and was used throughout the show, and will be on many a I must own this list . Pleats were a recurring motif and when a panel of black leather pleats was shown on a short navy circle skirt the look was fun and sexy. When it came to positives, the collection was full of them.
I was delighted to see Donna Karan coming back to such unique, strong, sexy dresses in her mens wear influenced collection. She sites as her inspiration her late husband, Stephan Weiss, and the night before the show Karan declared, “This collection is very much about the sculpture of his work and how it affected my life, he empowered me, and he’s always with me.” That pretty much sums up her collection — empowering!
No slouch to dresses herself, Carolina Herrera — whose dresses are a red carpet favorite of Renee Zellweger – is a master of elegant, refined day dresses and glamorous but never boring gowns. She focused on reinventing the sheath dress this season and produced dresses in a palette of deep navy, mulberry, indigo, lilac, and that were variously cut from tweed, grosgrain, double-faced wool or jacquard silk . My favorite gowns were the eye-catching print piece (see above) masquerading as walking modern art and the soft, robelike coat worn over a gown which was casual cool and glamorous simultaneously.
As New York packs up it’s runways and London has launched their collections, I leave you with a few of my other favorites Fall 2012 looks.
First group — clockwise from top left: Joeseph Altuzarra,, Joeseph Altuzarra, Alexander Wang, Mandy Coon , Mandy Coon, Alexander Wang.
Second group — clockwise from top left: Donna Karan, Carolina Herrera, Carolina Herrera, Donna Karan.
Third group — clockwise from top left: Pronza Schouler, Reed Krakoff, Chado Ralph Rucci, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, The Row.
All of the above are Fall/Winter 2012.