More Of Milan Fashion Week – Bottega Veneta

Thomas Maier dove even further back than the current trend of the sixties and seventies, to the era of the late thirties and early forties, his ladies plucked from the lush cabins on the Orient Express. A critically acclaimed collection that paid homage to the dress (which graced right below the knee) – there were no pants and just one coat among the 33 looks.

The devil is in the details, or in this case the modernity of the collection was in the details: panels of snake-skin were set into the skirts, collages of flower prints with bodices folded and pintucked, edges of glossy strips of snake-skin lined with matte studs, gleaming jet lozenges descending into dense clusters at the hems, dresses with a trellis of jet beads evaporating towards the hems and cocktail dresses consisting of myriad softly color-shaded rouleaux strips. All heavenly, and all showcasing the exceptional workmanship of his ateliers.

The color palette was a stark contrast to the vibrant colors most of his fellow Milanese designers embraced, the unusual spring hues – soft caramel, vanilla, dusty blue, gray, charcoal, rust and peach – were reminiscent of days where the sun fades early and leaves grace the grounds (not to mention the sheer black hose the models donned). “

“It’s about making women feel confident,” Maier said backstage, with his program notes declaring “ the designs are for women who’d rather not be summed up in a word or two”. I’m positive I’m not the only woman who would like one of everything!!

Fashion week has moved on to Paris. I leave you with a few more of my favorite looks from Milan.

1st Group of Photos – Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2013

2nd Group – clockwise from top left: Prada, Prada, Emilio Pucci, Gucci, Missoni, Jil Sander, Roberto Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana.

Milan Fashion Week – Versace

Spring 2013 finds Versace in a much freer state of being. Loose, flowing and whimsical while never losing its sexual edge. The collections coming from Milan have embraced the late sixties, early seventies however it’s the vain of the music festivals of every generation that this collection represents.

Mini tunic dresses, shorts and jeans with lace inserts; care free, tie dyed silk T-shirt dresses with billowy trumpet sleeves; pelmet skirts held together with Western cross-lacing scream to be danced in. The cross-body bags worn through out are the perfect accouterments for dancing unlike the gladiator heels.

Vogue.com relayed Donatella’s inspiration and battles within herself regarding the collection,  “I didn’t use any of the usual construction that goes inside. I wanted to challenge myself to do fluidity and lightness—and to have the ability to change. Is it younger, too?” ventured a reporter, tentatively. Yes. But I am getting younger! Ms. Versace shot back, laughing. Maybe it’s for a younger crowd. I stepped out of my comfort zone”.

Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2012 – Versace sizzles and D&G Fades Away

Bella e Sexy. To read this you don’t have to understand Italian, you just need to know it is describing Versace’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection and you’ll know it means beautiful and sexy.

The collection had a summery underwater theme – hence the starfish motifs, prints of seahorses and scalloped shells and warm weather pastels such as ice blue, lavender, lemon, and pistachio. “I was thinking of sirens and mermaids, their hot sexuality. And everything I like, and Gianni liked,” she said, laughing.

She goes on to say it was “the meeting of the old and the new Versace”. It was evident every where from the outfits that were a mixture of neoprene and plisse, shorts replacing the pelmet mini, Goddess like gowns to the gold studs Donatella has an affinity for.

How relevant is it that the craze for nineties Gianni Versace baroque ’n’ roll prints is at high tide—fashion kids are scouring every vintage source for shirts and scarves and flaunting them around the shows— and that Donatella’s first collection for H&M is set to debut in early November and will be bringing in a new wave of the Versace obsessed.

This collection screams Versace but what was heard on the lips of everyone leaving the show was, ” That was so Donatella “.

With Dolce and Gabbana integrating D&G in their main signature line, Thursday’s D&G show was the last of its kind. Leave it to Domenico and Stephano to go out with a bang!

Prints were on all the runways and in the front rows, but no where like the catwalk for D&G. The foundation was scarf prints taken from Dolce and Gabbana’s own back catalog, with what looked like a wink and a nod to those of Versace and Hermès as well.

There were polka dots, crests, medallions, butterflies, and flowers whipped in to shorts, pants, flowy skirts and mini dresses that looked as if they were tied out of scarfs. A pure homage to foulard. Notice the scarves woven into the footwear.

To be sure, this collection is going to be snapped up as fast as you can say ” One, two, three”. Be sure to get your collector’s item, shop early next Spring!!

The Best Of Fall/Winter 2011 Collections Part 2- Milan & Paris

There were many standouts in Milan’s fashion week Fall/Winter 2011 collections but none as strong as Gucci. Before the show Frida Giannini cited Anjelica Huston, as lensed by photographer Bob Richardson, as one of her influences. So, it came as no surprise that the 1970′s were once again the look at Gucci. Giannini proved herself adept at color mixing along with producing a collection-full of the luxe factor-that is not only wantable but wearable.

Surprisingly, the sleeper hit of the Milan Fashion Week was Salvatore Ferragamo. The collection-consisting of only grey, black and white, may sound drab but the use of  pinstripes, houndstooth and Prince of  Wales checks made it neither a boring or stuffy collection. Massimiliano Giornetti’s infused a touch of the eighties into the collection with the black velvet pantsuit and racy dresses in animal print silks.

Choosing our two favorites from the Paris Fall/Winter collections was near impossible, what with so many exquisite collections shown, that we didn’t, we choose three. The standout at Paris fashion week was unequivocally Haider Ackermannand and with his two standing ovations, we weren’t the only ones who thought so. Not only is he a master at draping and an adept colorist, his collection was perfectly edited.

Rounding out our favorites from Paris are Dries van Noten-whoose mixing of prints was extraordinary, in one dress he combined four prints and Christian Dior-we only choose Galliano for his fashion talent.

To read more of our thoughts on the Paris designer’s Fall /Winter 2011 collections, please visit our posts from March 4th,5th and 9th.

Top Row-Gucci Fall/Winter 2011-2012, Second Row-Salvatore Ferragamo Fall/Winter 2011-2012, Third Row-Haider Ackermann Fall/Winter 2011-2012, Fourth Row 1&2-Dries Van Notan Fall/Winter 2011-2012 and 3-Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2011-2012