Paris Fall/Winter 2012 Collections

For this year’s Alexander McQueen spring collection Sarah Burton gave us colors of the sea – beautiful blues and corals. For Fall 2012 Burton takes us far into the sea and gives us various anemones disguised as fashion. Sarah’s visions for fall were encased with thoughts of ” a beautiful future, positivity and optimism”. Like an under water dream, designs made from organza, marabou feathers and layers upon layer of tulle floated down the runway.

The beginning consisted of “pods”, short shaped skirts, with decoration embedded in the fabric which turned into “doilies” of laser-cut ponyskin mounted on leather, and finally fur pompoms. Then the pods exploded, like puffballs, into extravagantly shaggy shapes in goat fur, ostrich feather, or Mongolian lamb. Referring to a show that didn’t delineate a rational working wardrobe for fall, Burton said, “I think it’s the icing on the cake of what we do, you want something magical”. Magical it was.

But Burton is not one to leave any stone unturned. She delivered, at the temporary Paris atelier, racks of the practical, wearable commercial collection which reflected the ideas that glided down the runway — everything from jeans to floral knitted sheath dresses, pastel tailoring, and curvaceous coats and jackets.

Besides McQueen, Haider Ackerman is a designer that has always delivered for me and his fall 2012 collection was no exception. More body conscious than spring — note the wide, molded leather belts that cinched in the waist — the collection was dominated by full-bodied Melton wools, Mikado shantung, satins and rough-textured leather which Ackerman molded into very sexy and modern ensembles. The master of draping and color didn’t disappoint, there was a paprika satin blouse and mustard peplum worn with a berry-brown wool jacket and skirt that was divine, and an eggplant shantung 7/8 coat with smoke-gray satin pants and a chestnut blouse flourished with a bois-de-rose scarf to die for. His folds and drapes were those that could only be made by a master technician, they seem so natural and easy as if that was how nature would have them fall.

Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri have come into their own at Valentino this fall.  The overall concept for their fall collection, according to the designers, was “folk, but in a modern, faceted way.” They have been modernizing their sweetly feminine silhouettes — black leather gave the duo’s by-now familiar dresses and jumpsuits a new edge — and are designing for a more natural less perscriptive kind of beauty. I look forward to their future envisions for the Valentino woman.

The following are a few of my other favorite looks from Paris.

First group of 4 photos – ALexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2012. Second group of 4 photos – Haider Ackermann Fall/Winter 2012. Third group of 4 photos – Valentino Fall/Winter 2012.

Second Group – clockwise from top left: Lanvin, Lanvin, Balmain, Givenchy, Dries Van Noten, Veronique Leroy, Chanel, Balmain — all from Fall/Winter 2012.

The Top Spring/Summer 2012 Trends

1. Modest Ab Fab                            2 The Roaring Twenties – Art Deco

3 The 50′s silhouette                      4. Colors & Motifs of the Sea.

5. Pastels.                                         6. Head to Toe Print

7. The Peplum                                 8.Chic Sport

Get prepared to be in-style this Spring with these dynamite top 8 trends for the new season. Abs will be flaunted in a demure fashion – belly button covered. Take a trip back to the roaring twenties – Art Deco is on trend in Ready-to Wear and accessories -or visit the 50′s and try on one of their silhouettes. Neon colors are gone and while bright colors are still popular, look for the colors of the sea and pastels everywhere. Peplums are popping up on dresses, skirt suits and separate jackets alike — sport this trend for a smart chic way to jazz up your wardrobe. Prints are showing up in head to toe pant ensembles that when done right looks fresh and modern, when done wrong it looks as if you’re venturing out in your favorite pair of pj’s. Lastly, if you are into sport themed clothes they’re in a whole new ball game — this season their sophistication level rises up a notch to become Chic Sport.

By line and left to right: 1 Ab Fab – Roland Mouret and Band of Outsiders. 2 Art Deco – Ralph Lauren and Etro. 3  50′s silhouette – Carven and Dries Van Noten. 4 Colors and Motifs of the Sea – Alexander McQueen and Haider Ackermann, .5 Pastels – 3.1 Phillip Lim and Louis Vuitton. 6 Head to Toe Print – Camilla & Marc and Proenzo Schouler. 7 The Peplum – Celine and Chanel. 8 Chic Sport – Akris and Victoria Beckham.

Paris Fashion Week Part Deux

All photos are from Haider Ackermann Spring/Summer 2012

How does Haider Ackermann follow the brilliant collection that last Fall/Winter was? You design another exquisite collection. Where his Spring/Summer show may not be the masterpiece his last collection was, it was still stunning.

Ackerman men’s wear inspired collection showcased his sublime color skills – one look combined peacock-blue and aqua with apple green backless oxfords. His mastery of the drape was in full form which along with chiffon dresses and skirts lent a feminine touch to the collection.

When asked, why so much men’s wear? He replied,  “You love the idea that she would steal the clothes from her husband,” he said, before correcting himself: “Her lover, not her husband.”

Could not have said it better ourselves!

This season seems to be shaping into one where it’s all about “The Dress”.  Some of our favorites were from Martin Grant – whose show consisted of  the kind of precise, can’t-fail pieces that lands Lee Radziwill in Grant’s front row every season; Victor and Rolf – whose collection had a  whimsical air to it; Roland Mouret – where every dress was as beautiful and feminine as the next.

Christian Dior presented a pretty and wearable collection that unfortunately felt a little on the safe side. Our favorite part of the collection was the evening section that closed the show and felt like an immaculate parade of Hollywood legend Adrian’s Art Deco gowns.

While we are suckers for a beautiful well crafted designer dress, it was nice to have Isabel Marant’s collection to put a little kick-in-our-step. Marant made for the perfect antitode to all of the ladylike clothes that made up Spring Summer 2012. Pretty and sweet aren’t her thing; sexy, earthy and tres cool are. Thank God.

Clockwise from top left: Iabele Marant, Martin Grant, Victor & Rolf and Christian Dior. All Spring/Summer 2012.

The Best Of Fall/Winter 2011 Collections Part 2- Milan & Paris

There were many standouts in Milan’s fashion week Fall/Winter 2011 collections but none as strong as Gucci. Before the show Frida Giannini cited Anjelica Huston, as lensed by photographer Bob Richardson, as one of her influences. So, it came as no surprise that the 1970′s were once again the look at Gucci. Giannini proved herself adept at color mixing along with producing a collection-full of the luxe factor-that is not only wantable but wearable.

Surprisingly, the sleeper hit of the Milan Fashion Week was Salvatore Ferragamo. The collection-consisting of only grey, black and white, may sound drab but the use of  pinstripes, houndstooth and Prince of  Wales checks made it neither a boring or stuffy collection. Massimiliano Giornetti’s infused a touch of the eighties into the collection with the black velvet pantsuit and racy dresses in animal print silks.

Choosing our two favorites from the Paris Fall/Winter collections was near impossible, what with so many exquisite collections shown, that we didn’t, we choose three. The standout at Paris fashion week was unequivocally Haider Ackermannand and with his two standing ovations, we weren’t the only ones who thought so. Not only is he a master at draping and an adept colorist, his collection was perfectly edited.

Rounding out our favorites from Paris are Dries van Noten-whoose mixing of prints was extraordinary, in one dress he combined four prints and Christian Dior-we only choose Galliano for his fashion talent.

To read more of our thoughts on the Paris designer’s Fall /Winter 2011 collections, please visit our posts from March 4th,5th and 9th.

Top Row-Gucci Fall/Winter 2011-2012, Second Row-Salvatore Ferragamo Fall/Winter 2011-2012, Third Row-Haider Ackermann Fall/Winter 2011-2012, Fourth Row 1&2-Dries Van Notan Fall/Winter 2011-2012 and 3-Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2011-2012

Paris Fashion Week-Hader Ackermann Fall/Winter 2011-2012

All eyes were on Hader Ackerman in Paris this week, as the fashion world eagerly awaited the showing of his Fall/Winter 2011-2012 collection. Rumor has it he could be the next creative director at the house of Dior. He did not disappoint, in fact it seems as if he has raised the bar with this, his most stunning collection to date.

Starting off with black monochromatic looks, then introducing a mixture of black and white ensembles(our favorite being the long spiral, asymmetrically hemmed skirt and black jacket) before transitioning into an all ivory(which was a first), consummately draped pants and jacket-complete with the smallest of trains.

We all know Hader Ackermann as the master of the “wrap, twist, drape and tuck” but with this collection, he will also be known as the “master colorist”. When he moved into the resplendent jewel tones of olive, teal and emerald greens-whether the three were exquisitely paired together or coupled with luscious sapphire blues, plums or burgundy and finished with a toast of champagne and taupe-it was simply awe-inspiring.

He did not stop there, the collection was also ripe with texture, combining leather(beautifully draped), suede and knits alongside the fluidity of satin. The extra wide belts, jackets sleeves rolled and pushed up past the elbows and the flashes of long, lean bodies-shown courtesy of strategically placed cutouts-provided the edge that Ackermann followers are accustomed to.

Not only was this collection delicious to look at but was edited with a thoughtfulness to selection and a keen eye towards presenting the perfect mixture of glamour, elegance and ineffable cool that will ” play to a multitude of tastes”.

The show closed to a well deserved standing ovation. Look like all eyes were in the right place.